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Something new redux: Ethiopian Love Restaurant

APRIL 10, 2015 BY GRANT SHINDO

Last year we discovered an Ethiopian restaurant that popped up inside a ramen shop on Kapahulu Avenue. One day it disappeared and no one knew where it went. Until now.

See those rolls on the edges of the plate? This is injera flatbread, which has a spongy texture and a bit of tang much like sourdough bread. No utensils here, use the injera to eat!

See those rolls on the edges of the plate? This is injera flatbread, which has a spongy texture and a bit of tang much like sourdough bread. No utensils here, use the injera to eat!

Tucked away on Smith Street in Chinatown, Ethiopian Love Restaurant opened its doors in time for last week’s First Friday crowd. Utilizing the bold flavors of onion, garlic, turmeric, ginger and traditional spice blends called berbere and kebe, a clarified butter, owners Abraham Samuel and his fiancee bring out extravagant family-style dishes that you eat with your hands.

The restaurant is located in Chinatown along Smith Street, across from Little Village Noodle House

The restaurant is located in Chinatown along Smith Street, across from Little Village Noodle House

Our party of nine sat outside in a beautiful courtyard that you can glimpse from the street. The menu is manageable with a few appetizers, six entrees and nine vegan options. We had one vegetarian in the group who was already a fan; he helped us navigate the menu.

If it’s nice out, take an outside seat. The space is beautiful and a nice breeze runs through.

If it’s nice out, take an outside seat. The space is beautiful and a nice breeze runs through.

We started with sambussas ($6.50 for two) for everyone. Much like samosas in Indian cooking, these golden fried pockets of dough are stuffed with earthy brown lentils, green onions and herbs and served with a spice-laden sauce.

We started with sambussas ($6.50 for two) for everyone. Much like samosas in Indian cooking, these golden fried pockets of dough are stuffed with earthy brown lentils, green onions and herbs and served with a spice-laden sauce.

We got two big plates with injera, wots (think stews) and tibs (think boldly flavored stir fried beef, lamb or chicken).

We got two big plates with injera, wots (think stews) and tibs (think boldly flavored stir fried beef, lamb or chicken).

 

Everything you order is family-style and served on a bed of injera. We broke off pieces and mopped up bites from communal plates:

• Ethiopian Love veggie sampler ($20 for six vegetarian dishes of the day)
• Spicy awaze tibs ($17), sauteed beef with caramelized onions, tomato, bell pepper and berbere
• Lamb tibs ($18), a bold dish of onions, garlic, ginger, rosemary and kebe. It reminded me of a savory pork sausage in flavor
• Doro tibs ($14), chicken sauteed with onions, garlic, tomatoes, spices and herbs
• Love Shiro ($18), a thick, flavorful stew of seasoned ground chickpeas, cubed beef, kebe, garlic and karya

The lamb tibs, Love Shiro and azifa (brown lentils seasoned with onions, jalapeno and fresh lemon juice) were the crowd pleasers.

The lamb tibs, Love Shiro and azifa (brown lentils seasoned with onions, jalapeno and fresh lemon juice) were the crowd pleasers.

The service is friendly and explains what each dish is on your communal plate

The service is friendly and explains what each dish is on your communal plate

Remember, injera is a very filling carb, so keep that in mind when you’re ordering. We all shared a veggie sampler and four entrees and it comfortably fed the group. Our total came out to $20 per person including tax and tip, making Ethiopian Love Restaurant an affordable dining option.

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Take a Bite: Ethiopian Love opens in Chinatown (Honolulu Star Avertiser Story- APR. 29, 2015)

BY NADINE KAM / nkam@staradvertiser.com

Second chances are a good thing. If not for second chances, I might never have stepped foot in Ethiopian Love after a botched trip to its Kapahulu Avenue pop-up last fall.

Sharing space with a ramen restaurant, only a few tables were designated for Ethiopian food and the lines were for the Ethiopian half of the restaurant.

My friends and I waited about 45 minutes just to be seated, and after trying to place an order about 15 minutes later, we found most of the food on the menu was unavailable. We finally settled on a couple of dishes, and so began a long wait. We were hungry, but no water or drinks were offered, and neither was any sort of light appetizer to assuage that hunger.

By this time, one of our friends had to leave and she was mad she ended up having to eat at a fast-food restaurant.

A half hour after she left, we were informed there was no injera bread, which is the staple of Ethiopian meals. What? Oh well, we would settle for the couple tibs and wots, or wats, we had ordered. At about this point, two other groups of people who were also waiting to be fed decided to walk out.

A feast of meat and vegetable tibs and wots served atop injera bread with rolls of injera for grabbing morsels of food.

A feast of meat and vegetable tibs and wots served atop injera bread with rolls of injera for grabbing morsels of food.

When no food materialized after another half hour, we were getting nervous. It was closing in on 10 p.m. and we had already been told several times food was coming, but nothing showed up. If we didn’t find something to eat, every restaurant would be closed.

So, we left. There was no, “Wait, you could take it out,” no apology or anything. Just, “OK, bye!”

Luckily for us, Yakitori Yoshi was still open and we were so happy to be fed, and I never wrote about the Ethiopian restaurant. What’s the point if readers could not count on being fed? Maybe if I were on Yelp I would write about the epic fail, but the Honolulu Star-Advertiser is Hawaii’s newspaper of record and for a review of record I need to be as fair as possible — and that means repeat visits to get a more complete picture of good and bad.

Earlier this year I heard the Ethiopian restaurant was shopping for a brick-and-mortar site downtown and thought maybe its owners had finally gotten their act together. And so they have had to become more serious. Service is still slow because of the work that goes into the cuisine, which may be problematic for a lunch crowd, but if you have the time, it’s worth the wait for the delicious tibs (meat sautés) and wots (stewed meat or vegetables) served atop sour, spongy injera bread, all meant to be eaten with your hand.

The restaurant space is beautiful, with imagery and posters reflecting life in Ethiopia.

The restaurant space is beautiful, with imagery and posters reflecting life in Ethiopia.

I was lucky to have been guided through the process when lived briefly in Washington, D.C. as a loaner to USA Today when Gannett’s so-called “The Nation’s Newspaper” was being staffed by its network of regional newspapers across the country. There, I enjoyed cuisines from around the world, and in Adams Morgan found Red Sea, an Ethiopian restaurant that has since closed.

Part of the woes of service and availability is that the fermented injera, made of teff flour, is temperamental and batches can go bad. I’ve read accounts of those who grow up in Ethiopia saying the first batches made at home are never good.

Owner Abraham Samuel is happy to share details of Ethiopian culture and cuisine.

Owner Abraham Samuel is happy to share details of Ethiopian culture and cuisine.

Ethiopian Love owner Abraham Samuel said that the injera did not like Kapahulu’s water, causing them to rely on bottled water. They are doing better with Chinatown water, but the sourness does fluctuate. Personally, the less sour the better, to my taste.

Vegetarians will find much to love about this restaurant, with an array of stewed lentil and cabbage dishes, and the romi pictured, a sauté of mushrooms and veggies.

Vegetarians will find much to love about this restaurant, with an array of stewed lentil and cabbage dishes, and the romi pictured, a sauté of mushrooms and veggies.

This Ethio Love lamb special is topped with Ethiopian cheese with the texture of feta, but much lighter flavor. This was one of my favorite dishes, along with alicha wot, a turmeric-braised beef.

This Ethio Love lamb special is topped with Ethiopian cheese with the texture of feta, but much lighter flavor. This was one of my favorite dishes, along with alicha wot, a turmeric-braised beef.

I also loved azifa pictured here in the foreground, a refreshing salad of lentils, onions, jalapeño and lemon juice. In the background are doro tibs, sautéed chicken, and awaze tibs, sautéed beef.

I also loved azifa pictured here in the foreground, a refreshing salad of lentils, onions, jalapeño and lemon juice. In the background are doro tibs, sautéed chicken, and awaze tibs, sautéed beef.

I hope people will try this cuisine and the unique aspect of eating with the hands and the practice of gursha, a gesture of love and affection as families sit down to a meal together and feed each other. You don’t have to do it if it makes you feel uncomfortable, but it’s said that food from the same plate tastes better with gursha. 

It is a practice that can only be possible in a society that prizes friends and family. Here, it’s a practice we tend to share only with young children and via the custom of bride and groom feeding each other wedding cake as part of the matrimonial ceremony. In Ethiopia, it’s practiced daily as a means of bringing families close while allowing them to share the details of their day and impart life lessons. 

But, it comes with its hazards, as you’ll see in the video below, where unpracticed me chomped down on my friend’s finger, causing my Twitter followers to quip, “Lucky there’s no rabies in Hawaii,” and giving me the new title of yakuza-maker!

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Nadine Kam is Style Editor and staff restaurant critic at the Honolulu Star-Advertiser; her coverage is in print on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Contact her via email at nkam@staradvertiser.com and follow her on TwitterInstagram and Rebel Mouse.

 

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